WARNING: This is a long winded article!!!

 

If you have a 660 rhino our combo now comes with a 700 camplate and slides. We simply send you a 700 camplate and 700 slides and put them in your sheave. Our sheaves have been machined to accept the 700 slides.  We no longer have the greaseless slides for the 660 so this change was a must and is better anyway, the price increased to cover the camplate.

All Sheaves:

We now coat all our sheaves with a new dry lube. Read the tech article on the coating by clicking HERE.

 

 Getting some more top end:

 Everyone knows machining a rhino sheave causes roller weight flop and slow acceleration over 35mph. Reason is most people machine too much material out. Roller weight flop happens when you machine too much material out of the end of the track where the roller weight travels, as you reach around 35 to 40 mph the roller weight has to roll over the hump caused by the machining then falls into the machined slot. This is why you get such a change in RPM and shift feel. It is like shifting a car from third to overdrive. You will eventually get the higher top speeds it just takes a while.

When we made machined sheaves before we had the least amount of roller weight flop because we machined about 1/3 less material out and still got the same top speeds as other sheaves.

 Using a Grizzly Sheave in a Rhino:

 A Grizzly sheave is different than a rhino sheave by the fact that it has more roller weight travel than a rhino sheave does and by simply installing a grizzly sheave in a Rhino it will give you about 5 more mph than a stock rhino sheave but no other changes.

 So what we are doing is machining a grizzly sheave half as much as we used to machine rhino sheaves which were a third less than most people did their rhino sheaves and we still achieve the same top speeds but no roller weight flop. I am going to use some round numbers for an easy explanation. If a roller weight will roll out .050 more in a Grizzly sheave than a Rhino sheave and you are machining .100 off the Rhino sheave then you only need to machine .050 off the Grizzly sheave to achieve the same affect.

 This portion gives you the top end speed you’re looking for without roller weight flop because there is only a very small ledge formed by the machining process all the while getting the same amount of roller weight travel as a machined Rhino sheave.

 Comparing this to our Overdrive sliding weights, the weights do as advertised for top end with no roller weight flop, they just don’t do anything for bottom end and in some cases may slightly hurt it. Also independent testing has shown that OD weights increase friction.  You can't use overdrive weights in a grizzly because since the grizzly sheave is already a over drive compared to the rhino sheave you would have double overdrive and simply not enough power to pull thru the high gear.

 Getting some bottom end:

 Adding a 1.5 mm shim behind the primary sheave does help low end by dropping the belt down in the primary and higher in the secondary giving you a lower starting gear but a 1.5 mm shim cuts top speed about 5 to 8 mph and has higher rpm. Also adding shims give the cam plate less splines to be engaged to so they can cause issues with messing up the cam plate too.

 So to fix all this, we are machining material out at the back of the roller weight track so the cam plate will sit all the way down on the sheave which makes the belt lower in the primary and higher in secondary like the 1.5mm shim but the sheave is not spaced out like with the 1.5mm shim so this has no effect on top speed We are adding a .5mm shim behind the sheave to give us that little bit of extra belt travel we need to help low end and the .5mm will not hurt top end because we accounted for it on the outside portion of the machining process.

Viking and Wolverine no longer come with a .5mm shim, do not use any shim with these vehicles and our sheaves. 

Third Machine process: (700 Rhino Only)

 Then as a final machining we are machining the protrusion on the belt side of the sheave off and making the seal pocket deeper and reinstalling the seal cause it hits the fixed sheave before the belt can travel as far up as we want it to for higher top speeds. This protrusion will stop travel of the movable sheave no matter how much machining you do.  Also machining this off totally allows more belt travel downward for more bottom end performance without worrying about hitting the protrusion.

To stop the dirt in grease issue:

 Then we are going to add some round greaseless weights and cam plate slides. These will be optional, you can run your stock weights if you want and you can run them dry just not sure how long they will last without grease. We all know the problems the grease causes by trapping dirt in it.

Your options for the weights in a Rhino 700 are stock, 18gr greaseless for stock engine or 16gr for modified engine such as cams and/or pistons.

 660: We use 16gr almost all the time on a 660

Update for 660 Owners:

 660 Sheaves have been machined now to accept the 700 camplate, you could always run them in there but there is an extremely small amount of belt travel given up, now it has been fixed.

 We now have a new style machined sheave for the 660, the outcome is the same as the 700 sheave. One machining difference is there is no machining of the protrusion on the belt side because the 660 sheave does not have this. Down side is the 660 sheave cost us more  so therefore the price has to be higher by same amount. The sheave itself is higher and the seals in the sheave are not included in the 660 as they are in the 700 sheave from Yamaha.

 So why this is one for a 660 better and not someone else's machined sheave? More low end than theirs, greaseless weights and NO ROLLER WEIGHT FLOP!! So your acceleration will be much quicker.

 About the price:

 660 sheaves cost more than 700 sheaves and they do not come with the seals already in them like the 700 does so this is why the 660 just cost more.

 Trust me, if we could make it better and someone else figured something else we did not then we would simply adapt their way of doing it and thru extensive testing nothing is better than ours.

 We do now recommend one thing we not always have and that is where some of the reported differences have come into play. Secondary Spring; If you have 25-26” tires and they are a lighter tire no need in changing the secondary spring. If they are a heavy design like a Bighorn, Terra Cross, Mud Lite and Mud Light XTR etc then you need a stiffer secondary spring to help you with lower speed performance. Tires in the 27” and higher simply will just really need the stiffer spring to get the most from this set up, not required but surely recommended.  660 owners with (26-28" Tires get the Purple spring, (28- Larger) Gold, for the 700 owners (26-28" Tires get the gold spring and 28" and larger call first

 Speed and Performance Expectations:

 The speeds we get on our race rhino are NOT typical of most everyone’s Rhino so unless you have the power to push your vehicle to the rev limiter like ours you will NOT get in the 60-65 mph range.

 Typical results are as follows:

 Stock Rhino 700 with sheave only roughly 50mph

 Stock 660 Rhino with sheave only 44mph, the 660 also has a speed limiter so to get the 50mph range you will need an aftermarket CDI like our Tri-Fire to accomplish the top speed.

 Buying both a MSD or Power Commander V for a Rhino 700 only and adding it to a machined sheave will only get you another 3-4 mph, not worth the money in my opinion. I would only recommend buying this if you are going to do the exhaust or camshaft later and you wanted to split your purchases due to money.

 Rhino 700: Adding our sheave, msd or power commander, exhaust will get you around 58-60 with the right sized and weighted tires, not windshield or roof

 Rhino 700: adding the camshaft to the above mix and 16gr weights gets you normally to hitting your rev limiter at 65mph and again this all depends on tires, roofs windshields etc.

 Factoid: a set of 26” Terra Cross tires eat up 6hp on a stock rhino and on our dyno it only had 22hp to start with at the rear wheels so says our dyno.

 Rhino 660: We never did a cam only, but with a cam and 686 kit, CDI, our sheave right tires and no windshield you will get in the 60 plus range as well.

 Our set up works for MOST people, the people who dune, have four seater cages, bigger tires, heavier tires, super large tires like some 29” tire etc will simply have to expect less than the typical results. Does this still work, yes works great but you will NOT go 65 mph.

 Now for the guy who is the typical guy and does not get what you think, rest assured it is NOT the parts, something is going on and we simply need to work it out until we can figure it out.

 Bottom End performance:

  The law of physics says it can’t be improved on over our set up, why? Because there is nothing you can do to get the belt any lower in the primary and higher in the secondary safely than what we do. To my knowledge ours is by far the best at this.

Greaseless:

All our sheaves are coated with a proprietary dry lube coating, no grease needed.

 These weights are self lubricating and Yamaha is the only company who uses grease and it is for noise control not greasing anything, no other company with an roller weight clutch uses grease. Greaseless is best in my opinion due to the dirt sticking

You will still have to clean the dirt out due to the extreme dust and think on this. What would you rather do, totally disassemble it, clean the grease out, re-grease it or simply take the CVT cover off and use a pressure washer to wash out the sheave while still installed, turn the engine over to get all out, then make a sweep to wash all dirt off with the pressure washer, crank up engine let it sling water off and put cover back on?  I will take the second and you can only do that because you are running greaseless so no grease to spatter all over everything.

 Maintenance:

 Going greaseless does not mean you can install these and never do maintenance, it means that maintenance is easier. Depending on your riding conditions, dust and sand and how much of it, you will need to do some maintenance. The maintenance is to take the CVT cover off and at minimal blow the dust out of the primary sheave. The best you can do is take the primary apart and clean it out with carb cleaner or other cleaner. While I have yet to do it, I see no reason you can't pressure wash it, turn the sheave and clean it out good with water, then crank it up spinning the water out then putting cover back on.  If you do the latter take caution as I have not done this myself yet. Regardless of your cleaning method the greaseless is far more easier to maintain than greased weights.

 Warnings: Do NOT use CVT filters as they slow air flow down and create heat which will damage a clutch. Snorkels are rarely done right and normally not big enough for proper air flow which leads to damage. So if you must snorkel make sure your exhaust side is larger than 2".

 Final Conclusion:

 It just works!! If we thought we could make it better we would, if someone had a trick we don’t we would do the same thing.

 So we get better lower power, higher top speeds, no roller weight flop and get to get rid of the grease in the sheave with the greaseless weights.

 These are brand new sheaves, no core charges, no wait on your parts to get done and no used